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Location: Litchfield Park, Arizona, United States

Tuesday, May 24, 2005

Steak Your Claim

Where has the time gone? It seems as though the month of May has whipped by in a flash, and so have my posting habits. Now that the heat has settled in for the summer, and we won’t see 80 degrees for at least 3 more months, I have a feeling I’ll have some time on my hands to post on a regular basis once again.
As I’ve mentioned some time ago, I’ll be branching out from the cigar world from time to time by diving into the world of cuisine. Without spiraling this blog beyond it’s intent, I’d like to add just one more column dedicated to restaurant reviews, and there’s no better restaurant to start off with in the Valley of the Sun than Durant’s.


If you’re looking for the quintessential steakhouse, look no further, for this establishment is rich in history and it shows through their quality, service, preparation and presentation. It all starts with the entrance.


When you think of a steakhouse, you may think of a grand entrance with autographed photos of local sports heroes, entertainers and newscasters elegantly framed on the walls, possibly leading past a tray of fresh cuts of beef with a hostess eagerly waiting to seat your reservation. Durant’s has kicked that tradition out the window, and what we get in its place is something straight out of Goodfellas. Imagine walking through the back door leading you straight into the kitchen, where open flame ignites the room hotter than the summer heat, where smoky scents of mesquite wet the palette, where chefs wave a quick hello making you feel as though the night ahead is something special. Once through the kitchen, all outdoor lighting is extinguished and what you’re left with is the sultry hues of red velvet and leather, bringing you back to a time long forgotten by many. The lights remain dim, but your eyes will quickly adjust, which is an added relief from the glaring Arizona sun. As you check in with the host, you’re quickly seated past the bar into the main dining area filled with worn-in high-back rounded booths.


An extensive wine list by the glass, half or full bottle is presented along with what could be labeled as the best martinis in the valley. The appetizers will serve as a perfect start for the table in generous portions easily serving four. The menu is modest in selection, so it’s hard to go wrong in your choice (I personally chose the 18oz rib eye steak to find the marbling effect cooked to perfection leaving one of the juiciest cuts imaginable). Along with beef, there’s a selection of seafood, chicken, pork, lamb and veal. All cuts of beef are dry aged and mesquite grilled seasoned with only salt and pepper. The simplicity is key, for the mesquite flavor seems to infuse the meat bringing a rich and smoky rush of flavor. Unfortunately for our party, we had to practically roll out from the table without leaving room for the decadent desserts. From what I’ve heard, the desserts are worth a trip alone, but that’s a write up for another time.

Upon chatting with our server, we mentioned we had an event to go to after dinner, and she guessed correctly when asking if it were the Jerry Seinfeld concert. She made a point to ensure our dishes were brought out promptly and our check was settled well before the show. Not once did I feel rushed for use of our dining space (however I did feel rushed during the Seinfeld show considering he only took the stage for an hour which breaks down to $1.33 per minute of comedy; but that’s a rant for another day!). The staff was more than cordial by checking to see if all entrees were prepared to our liking. They also checked, as our drinks ran low, if we needed additional libations; and never did a water glass run dry.


Overall, Durant’s was a very unique experience, far beyond the cookie-cutter chophouses cropping up in all major markets. I believe the founder, Frank Durant, sums up my overall experience with “Good friends, great steaks and the best booze are the necessities in life”. Cut into a slice of Phoenix history the next time you have a craving for steak, and pick up Goodfellas afterwards for a night well spent.



Durant's Steakhouse
2611 N. Central Ave.
Phoenix, AZ 85004
Reservations: 602.264.5967



I'm seeing red! Posted by Hello

1 Comments:

Anonymous Anonymous said...

You should get your contact information up so us BOTL's can bomb you.

;-)

Wednesday, May 25, 2005 8:44:00 AM  

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